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Argentina: empanadas with chimichurri [vegan]


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Argentine pizza with chickpea fainá
“Pizza over fainá.” – photo by Marcelo Teson. Shared under CC BY 2.0.

Argentina is the second-largest country in South America and was colonized by the Spanish during the 1500s, removing most of the original native population ​[1]​. As a result, the cuisine is largely based on Spanish food with influences from the native Andean peoples ​​[1]–[3]​​. Over the centuries, Argentina has seen a lot of immigration, not in the least during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There is a large Italian population and Italian dishes such as pizza and many types of pasta and gnocchi are common. An interesting twist with Argentine pizza is that it is often served with faina – a crunchy chickpea bread added to the pizza after it is baked ​[4], [5]​.

Argentina is by far most famous for eating lots of cows, especially of the barbequed kind (asado – the barbeque technique and the event) ​​​[1], [2], [4]–[6]​. In addition to eating cows, their milk plays a big part in the Argentine kitchen in the forms of cheese and dulce de leche, the latter often served as filling in pastries or as dessert topping.

Yerba mate Argentinian drink
Yerba mate – photo by Jorge Alfonso Hernández.

In the plant-based part of Argentine cooking, vegetables like peppers, pumpkin, mint, parsley, potato, sweet potato, leek, tomato, and onion are common ​[4]​. Manioc (cassava) is eaten roasted or ground into flour and baked into small buns called chipá​ [3]​. Corn has been grown in the region since pre-settlement days and is still an important staple, consumed in a large number of ways, such as boiled corn flour served with a fried pepper and onion sauce (frangollo) or boiled with milk, sugar, and vanilla as a dessert called mazamorra ​[1], [7]​.

A few dishes can trace their origins to the pre-colonial era. These dishes include humitas (corn, cornflour and milk are mixed and boiled, steamed or baked in corn husks, similar to Mexican tamales) and locro (a thick stew based on hominy, meat and vegetables) (hominy are dried corn kernels treated with some alkaline solution, such as lye ​[8]​) ​[1], [9]​.

Another pre-colonial custom is yerba mate. Ground plants (yerba mate) are packed into a cup and covered with boiling water. The water is then drunk through a metal straw with a filtered end in a sharing ceremony where the same cup is passed around and refilled with hot water between participants.

Empanadas with chimichurri

Aside from asado, a sight common in the Argentine kitchen is the empanada, one of the country’s national dishes ​[10]​. The conceptual relative to many other dishes across the world – pierogis, dumplings, bao, cornish pastry, pastelles, samosa, even tortellini in a sense – empanadas consist of a simple dough folded around a savory filling ​[11]​.

Call it a snack, starter, street food or party dish, the empanada is enjoyed all across Latin America in one version or another ​[12], [13]​. In Argentina, the empanada is often stuffed with beef and onion and with additional fillings depending on the region. In the northwest, empanadas often include potatoes and peas while wine regions often include raisins ​[1], [14]​. Olives and hard-boiled eggs are also popular while some regions make spicier empanadas or replace beef with chicken ​[1], [14]​.

Base filling with tofu, onion and bell pepper

Filling

In this vegan version, I chose to create two versions of filling. Both have the same base filling consisting of onion, tofu, bell pepper, and spices. One version adds the peculiar combination of raisins and olives that seems very common in Argentina ​[15]–[18]​. In the other version, I drew inspiration from the Province of Jujuy and included boiled potato and green peas ​[1], [14]​.

Dough

I had a hard time finding a consensus on what dough to use for empanadas. Many recipes call for buying ready-made empanada dough (already rolled out) ​[14]​ while other recipes use puff pastry ​[15]​. In the end, I veganized the dough shared by Gaby Melian at Bon Appétit ​[16]​.

Chimichurri

Chimichurri

Chimichurri is an amazingly delicious simple sauce that you should definitely make, if you haven’t made it before. And then probably make it again. The details of the recipe vary but it is basically olive oil, fresh parsley, garlic, and vinegar. Some recipes include red onion, chili, and other fresh herbs, like oregano, basil, or thyme ​[1], [2], [19]–[22]​.

Conclusion

These empanadas were very tasty, a soft filling with a dough that is both crispy and chewy. But the real hero of this meal was the chimichurri. It added great contrast with its acidity and packed a lot of flavour with garlic, parsley, and chili. The saucy richness of the olive oil was a great addition. I also tried freezing the last two empanadas and thawed them out a few days later. They were still great, just pop them in the oven at 150°C for 20 or so min.

I must say I was quite skeptical of the raisins but paired with the chimichurri – they added great little pops of sweetness to break off the vinegar. And after all, Gaby Melian did say that you have to include them – if you don’t like them you can remove them ​[16]​. But do try them.


Empanada with a good amount of chimichurri.
Argentina empanadas vegan recipe chimichurri
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Empanadas with chimichurri

Dough wrapped packets of delicious goodness, empanadas are a must try. And when you do try them, don't forget to make chimichurri – a thick parsley based, oil and vinegar sauce.
Course Snack, streetfood
Cuisine Argentine, Latin American, South America
Prep Time 1 hour
Cook Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Resting time 2 hours
Servings 12 empanadas

Ingredients

Dough

  • 60 mL vegan margarine ¼ cup
  • 250 mL water
  • 1.5 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp apple cider vinegar
  • 7.5 dl all-purpose flour 3 cups

Base filling

  • 1 block tofu, firm or extra firm
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • ½ red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tbsp cumin
  • 1 tbsp paprika
  • 1 tbsp oregano
  • 1 pinch cayenne
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • salt to taste

Filling – version 1

  • 1-2 potatoes, boiled
  • 1 dl green peas

Filling – version 2

  • 2-3 tbsp raisins
  • 10 olives

Chimichurri

  • 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 2.5 dl olive oil
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp dry oregano
  • ½-1 red chili, finely chopped
  • salt to taste

Instructions

Dough

  • Melt the margarine and mix with water, salt and vinegar in a large bowl.
  • Mix in the flour, a bit at a time.
  • When all the flour is added, kneed the dough for a few minutes (by hand).
  • Oil another bowl and roll the dough into a ball. Place the dough in the bowl, cover with clingfilm or a plastic bag.
  • Let rest in the fridge 1-2 h or longer. Can be made the day before.

Chimichurri

  • Mix all the ingredients together.
  • Optional: use a muddler to mash the parsley a bit after mixing.
  • Let sit for 1+ h. Can be made the day before and stored in fridge.
  • Taste and adjust acidity and salt level.

Base filling

  • Sweat the onion in the oil in a large pan.
  • Tear the tofu into chunks of varying size, from 0.5 – 1.5 cm.
  • When the onion is transparent, add the garlic and bell pepper and sweat a little more.
  • Add the tofu followed by the spices.
  • Keep stirring and frying until the tofu has lost all liquid and is starting to brown, ~10 minutes.
    Toward the end, you can turn up the heat and stop stirring a bit to help the browning.
  • You can add some water to help distribute the spices more easily.
  • Set aside and let cool.

Filling – version 1

  • Split the base filling into two bowls.
  • Chop the boiled potatoes into small pieces (0.5 cm) and add to one bowl with base filling.
  • Add the peas to the same bowl. Mix

Filling – version 2

  • In the second bowl containing base filling, add raisins.
  • Pit the olives and tear into large chunks. Set aside.

Assembly – dough

  • When the dough has been chilled, take it out of the fridge.
  • Working on a lighlty floured surface, cut the dough into 4 pieces. Keep the pieces covered by cling film.
  • Using a rolling pin, roll the first piece of dough into a ~1 mm thick sheet.
  • Using a bowl, plate, or similar as a guide, cut out circles with ~10 cm diameter.
    Collect all the scrap pieces and roll out again at the end. Continue until there is no dough left.
  • Alternately, roll small pieces of dough into balls and roll those out using a rolling pin or tortilal press.

Assembly – filling

  • Preheat your oven to 180°C (~350°F).
  • Add 1-3 tbsp of filling in the middle of each dough circle, slightly off-center.
    For filling – version 2, add a few pieces of olive as well.
  • Wet the edge of the dough with a bit of water, using a pastry brush or your finger.
  • Fold the dough over the filling and gently press down.
  • Create a seal using a fork or by folding the dough into mutiple small folds (see photos.)
  • Chill the empanadas for 5-10 min in the fridge.
  • Crimp the edges of the dough to improve the seal. Either by folding the dough over itself along the edge or by using a fork.
  • Using a fork, create small holes along the back of each empanada to allow steam to escape.
    Optional: use different patterns to keep track of filling.
  • Bake on parchment paper for 20-30 min at 180°C (~350°F) until starting to brown underneath. Switch on broil for another 3 minutes to brown the top.
  • Enjoy warm with chimichurri.
Yum
Disclaimer
I will try to cook one or more dishes for every country on the planet. Obviously, I am not from 99.5% of the countries. Best case scenario is that I know someone from the country and have visited it myself. Most of the time though, my research is based on different websites and books, without me ever tasting the real dish (which often is non-vegan anyway).
In other words: these recipes are not authentic but I hope you will enjoy my renditions and veganized versions of this small sample of the world’s different cuisines.

References

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    M. G. Hoss de la Comte, Argentine Cookery, 1st ed. Buenos Aires: Maizal, 2000 [Online]. Available: https://openlibrary.org/works/OL9149738W/Argentine_Cookery. [Accessed: 29-Apr-2020]
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    A., “Traditional Food In Argentina: The Top 10 Dishes For Foodies,” Trip 101, 02-Apr-2020. [Online]. Available: https://trip101.com/article/traditional-food-in-argentina. [Accessed: 28-Apr-2020]
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    A. Ghose, Argentina, 2nd ed. London: DK, 2010 [Online]. Available: https://openlibrary.org/works/OL16959086W/Argentina. [Accessed: 29-Apr-2020]
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    “17 Delicious Argentine Food Dishes You Should Be Eating in 2019,” Amigo Foods. [Online]. Available: https://blog.amigofoods.com/index.php/argentine-foods/argentine-food-dishes/. [Accessed: 28-Apr-2020]
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    “Mazamorra,” Wikipedia. [Online]. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazamorra. [Accessed: 09-May-2020]
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    “Hominy,” Wikipedia. [Online]. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hominy. [Accessed: 29-Apr-2020]
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    “Humita Ultimate Guide: How to Cook Humitas, History, Styles and more,” Vamos Academy, 14-Mar-2018. [Online]. Available: https://vamospanish.com/discover/humita-argentina-food/. [Accessed: 28-Apr-2020]
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    “National dish,” Wikipedia. [Online]. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_dish. [Accessed: 09-May-2020]
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    “A Complete History of Argentinian Empanadas,” Amigo Foods. [Online]. Available: https://blog.amigofoods.com/index.php/argentine-foods/history-of-argentinian-empanadas/. [Accessed: 29-Apr-2020]
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    N. Tomky, “Meet the Empanadas of Latin America,” Serious Eats, 14-Oct-2014. [Online]. Available: https://www.seriouseats.com/2014/10/types-of-empanadas-saltenas-corn-flour-plantain-viento-latin-american-food.html. [Accessed: 09-May-2020]
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    Y. Simon, “Empanadas of latin America,” Remezcla, 2016. [Online]. Available: https://remezcla.com/lists/food/empanadas-of-latin-america/. [Accessed: 09-May-2020]
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    L. Carr de Olmedo, “The Best Empanadas in Argentina: Regional Recipes,” The Real Argentina, 21-May-2014. [Online]. Available: https://therealargentina.com/en/the-best-empanadas-in-argentina-regional-recipes/. [Accessed: 29-Apr-2020]
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    G. Melian, “Argentinian Beef Empanadas,” Bon Appetit, Feb-2017. [Online]. Available: https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/argentinian-beef-empanadas. [Accessed: 28-Apr-2020]
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    G. Melian, “Gaby makes empanadas,” Youtube, 05-Aug-2019. [Online]. Available: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fv-mwCCBqAs. [Accessed: 28-Apr-2020]
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